It was the best of times, it was the worst of times...

Let's start with the worst of times;
We have been here since Nov 1st and just today finished the final step in gaining our 1 year visa. Numerous days of travelling all over the city paying this fee and that fee, getting this verified and delivering that form to that department. I think we have visited most of the police stations in Tarija, some several times. Local police checks, Interpol checks etc etc. We have given our fingerprints so many times I think my fingers will stay purple for the rest of the year! And all this after we had to return to Argentina to get the CORRECT entry visa so we could APPLY for the one year visa. Let's just say thank goodness that's over. Martin Rattray made it as easy as it could be, and I highly recommend you avail yourselves of his services if you plan to come here. He guided us through all the drama, and his fees were extremely reasonable.
   Once we got our visa, we had to apply for our carnet, i.e. an identity card everyone has to carry. More travelling around, but at least it involved electronic fingerprinting. Why can't the different departments talk to each other, I mean really, 6 different fingerprint samples? Oh well, today we received our carnets and it is over!! at last!!
   Now let's talk about Lois' coffee machine. We posted it from New Zealand prior to flying out and it cost us $600NZ (a 20kg package) We thought that was exorbitant, but hey she is worth it. Anyway it arrived here the same time as us but to another city, La Paz. The thing is customs wants us to pay about $1000US to release it! Their claim is it is liable to customs duty. We have had to provide proof of purchase, this form that form, etc, and we still don't have the machine. In fact it is still in             La Paz. Today Martin took us to the customs office here in Tarija to argue that it is second hand and for personal use. Martin even had a printout of the regulations which show we should not have to pay the fee. It seems we finally had a breakthrough and they agree it is exempt. However you only have 60 days to get anything out of customs, so we are running pretty close to the wind. We were told today the customs agent in La Paz will release it from customs on Monday, but we have to pay his "fee" and transport costs to Tarija from La Paz, despite having paid in NZ to send it to Tarija. Oh well lesson learned there, don't post stuff to Bolivia!
   Now the best of times;
Oh the dichotomy of Bolivia! Lois and I decided after much thought, to buy a motorcycle. Much of the territory our group has is beyond public transport. Most of this remote territory has never been preached to! Thus the need for a motorbike. Firstly I needed to get a license. You guessed it 20 places to visit, fingerprints etc. However normally getting a license involves studying, a test, a practical test and a night of instruction.
   I managed to get the local road code which seemed to focus strongly for some reason on not using the horn unnecessarily. EVERYONE here uses the horn unnecessarily. Right so I have to go and get a medical. The doctor asks me are you healthy? Can you see? "Yes I can" I reply. Next thing he hands me my medical form - passed 20/20 vision! No test, nothing! that was easy, but I wasn't looking forward to the test knowing my Spanish wasn't up to scratch.
   The instruction night involved apparently an "instructional" video showing possible distractions you may face while driving. Including.... A woman flashing her boobs, decapitated bodies... actually I haven't seen much of that on the roads to be honest! BUT before the video I needed to pass the theory. Well I go in and they realise I don't speak great Spanish. Result? "You won't understand the test so we may as well just give you your license!! I walked out with my license, being spared the video AND the practical! Oh just one thing I have to do, provide proof I haven't been involved in any accidents in Bolivia. Bit strange I thought seeing as I am APPLYING for a license, how could I have already been in an accident?
   An English brother here recently did his license (Ben Golding-Webb). He had a proper medical, a proper theory test. Had to watch the video, (hence I know what is in it) then sat the practical. He had never ridden a motorbike and knocked over every cone in the test area. Result? "but you know how to ride though don't you?" Result - Pass
   So yes Bolivia is definitely a tale of two cities!
I will post pictures of my new bike in future posts but in lieu of a copy of THE video, I will add some random unrelated photos to go with the general flow of things here.

  

Pigs here have a triangle of sticks tied tightly around their necks which still allows them to forage, but stops them getting through fences into crops. More humane than rings through noses I believe.

The hall at San Lorenzo where we attend meetings. It doubles as a dining room for Ben and Dawn Golding-Webb from England. Ben is seated at the rear end of the table.

Dawn Golding-Webb preaching with a friend in San Lorenzo's territory.